Friday, November 29

An Uplifting History: The Brassiere Files

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Bras – whether training, maternity, padded or push-up – are the one thing that not many women can get away without. Donning a bra has become such an essential part of our wardrobe that its origins offer no relevance. However, if you’re like me and you have sometimes cursed the inventor of the bra when the underwire starts stabbing you while you’re at the office, here’s a brief trip down brassiere lane, as we uncover some interesting (and sometimes humorous) facts about this humble undergarment.

more-bra-types

Different types of modern day bras.

The first version of the modern-day bra was introduced in 1913 when socialite, Mary Phelps Jacob, dissatisfied with the way her corset poked out from under her dress, together with her maid, designed a more practical “bust holding” undergarment, using two handkerchiefs and ribbon. Word of the “backless brassiere” spread among Jacob’s friends and it become so popular that she patented her design in 1914. Despite her invention being much sought after, Jacob’s was not the savviest businesswoman. She sold her design for a mere $1500 (this was a large amount at the time) to Warner Brothers Corset Company, who went on to make approximately $15 million from it. One of the reasons for this amazing success (besides the comfort and simplicity factor) is that corsets manufacturers went out of business during World War One. Metal restrictions were put in place, restricting corset manufacturing, and used for war-tank manufacturing instead.

Madonna and Marilyn Monroe sporting the famous "Bullet Bra".

Madonna and Marilyn Monroe sporting the famous “Bullet Bra”.

However, it wasn’t until the early 1920s when Enid Bissett and Ida Rosenthal on account of being fed-up with the baggy silhouette that the bras under their designer garments, invented the form-fitting bra.  The bra design incorporated two separate cups, and a range of bras available in different cup sizes. Ida’s husband, William perfected the woman’s design and together, the three began the Enid Manufacturing Co. which later became the Maiden Form Brassiere Co. In 1949 Maiden Form invented the Chansonette bra, more commonly known as the Bullet Bra that was famously worn by celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe and Madonna. The following decades saw many developments to the bra design.

These include Fredric Mellinger’s invention of the first push-up bra, called the Rising Star, in 1946 and an embarrassing trip to the lingerie store for Roy Raymond in 1977 resulting in the Victoria’s Secret franchise. Raymond  sold Victoria Secret to Leslie Wexner for $1 000 000, a sixth of its real value in 1982, to open a children’s clothing store. The store declared bankruptcy in 1986 and Raymond committed suicide in 1993.

A brief overview of the history of bra designs:

  • An advertisement for a version of the inflatable bra.

    An advertisement for a version of the inflatable bra.

    1952 saw the introduction of an inflatable bra. With a discreetly hidden hand pump, the wearer could pump the expandable air pockets situated in the bra to help them achieve their “perfect contour”.

  • In the early 90s the Japanese lingerie company, Triumph International, honoured Mozart on the 200th anniversary of his passing by creating a musical bra. The undergarment plays 20 seconds of the Austrian composer’s music each time it is fastened. It also includes lights that flash according to the music’s beat.
  • French company, Neyret announced the launch of a scented bra in 1998. When stretched or caressed, it would release scents of watermelon or grapefruit!

Now that you know a bit more about them, maybe that nagging underwire will be better to deal with, especially since it’s not a corset that plays Mozart!

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